SBS does Venice

SBS is screening a great series on Venice. Venice 24/7. Wednesday night at 8.30pm it covers the daily workings of the Fire, Police and Medical crews who provide support to the inhabitants of this unique city. The episode I watched last night had a focus on the recent visit of Pope Benedict XVI. With 100 churches in a three mile radius, this was always going to be a major logistical challenge. 2000 security personnel have been appointed to deal with the planning and implementation of the visit, in addition to the Vaticans own securi forces who travel with the Pope. Large crowds are expected within Piazza San Marco, the main destination point for the Pontif and his entourage. Not unexpectedly the key risk for events of this scale is " people falling into the water". It is the Fire Crews who respond to these emergencies and rescue people from the canals and waterways. They even undertake rigorous training to learn how to deal with exactly these situations. Giancarlo, Franco and Bruno are three of the four gondoliers selected to transport the Pontiff by boat. The selection process is extreme with a panel appointed to determine which of the hundreds of applicants will be selected for such an honour. The guys get together to discuss whether it is an option to "go slower so that they get to spend more time with the Pope". The men raise their oars in the traditional salute, and then receive a blessing from the Pope by way of thanks. It is evident this is a big moment for each of the men. Resplendent in specially designed new uniforms they are beaming with pleasure. Having now had the pleasure of zipping around in a golf buggy at Hamilton Island, I was amused to see that Pope Benedict's special transport for his visit was a custom made six seat buggy (officially known as a Pope mobile) with special police driver. This driver too practice travelling the route across Piazza San Marco to check for time frames and stability of the vehicle on the paving stones. God forbid we're the Pontiff to be shaken around at all. Funnily enough the Doges Palace was converted to a modern medical facility to act as a mobile field hospital to deal with medical emergencies within the crowds but simultaneously acted as the overnight accommodation for Pope Benedict. Hopefully not in triage, but in a separate palatial wing. Next focus was planning for the Venice Biennale with pop up art galleries in houses, churches and moorings. A six month celebration of modern art that takes over Venice every two years. Again, the logistics are incredible and interesting to follow as they show the installation of Jan Favre's Pietas's at Scuola de Misercordia in Cannareggio. The same area that Orsoni is situated and whose streets we walked so recently. Then similar coverage of the installation of Anish Kapoor's Ascension in San Giorgio Maggiore, a Palladian designed church where I first experienced Gregorian chanting.

By the time they showed a gas leak in Calle del Fumo I was literally bouncing off the couch. This is the street that the incredible glass master Vittorio Costantini has his workshop in! Having just been to see him, exploring Venice, breathing her scents and absorbing all this incredible city has to offer it was inspiring to see it all again so soon. Right in front of me, but just out of reach. As for next weeks episode? It looks at how the city deals with continually rising waters as the city itself sinks. Aqua alto here I come!

Christmas in Tasmania

Christmas in Tasmania is quite unlike anything I have yet experienced. That said, the number of cold Christmases I have experienced can be counted on one hand. Venice in 2006 with chicken and mass in Italian in the morning both highlights, as was the queue outside Louis Vuitton on Christmas Eve. For 2012 a fire in the hearth and holly in the garden made it a memorable day. The pace of Christmas on the farm is something special too. Slow breakfast, gifts, a wander up to see the sheep, leisurely roast lunch, phone call to family, time before the fire, drinks with friends in the afternoon. Perfect.

Return to Paris

It was nice returning to Paris with a feeling of knowing a little where we were.  It felt good to come back to our hotel and recognize our surroundings.  This time the driver was there to meet us, and we were collected, had luggage on board and were on route to our hotel without the angst and concerns of our visit a couple of weeks ago.  It was strange to return.  Last visit I was so excited about the potential for our holiday.  Now having enjoyed the time we have spent exploring Paris, Venice and Lake Como, it is a little sad to return as we are heading home.  That said, I always love coming home.  I miss my things, my pets and my friends.  I have too a new collection of things to add as momentos of my trip, so will enjoy finding a spot at home for my new treasures.  Best of all, the furries will come home. 2.11.2012

Navigating Venice

Venetian streets are challenging to navigate. Some because they are so narrow, others because they end in a courtyard or deadend, and others because they change name numerous times along what seems to be the same street. So, it is not unusual for you to walk along Fondamnta S. Bagio, which then becomes Fondamenta S. Eufemia, which then turns into Fondamenta Ponte Piccolo. All without going around a corner or a bend in the road. Then there are the abbreviations. Sometimes the street sign, not freestanding as we are used to, but painted onto the building on the corner, will say "Chiesa.." other times Chiesa is abbreviated to C. The letter S is offen used as an abreviation for San (Saint)To say you need a good map is an understatement. That said, it is so worth exploring the little areas off the tourist path. Exploring the backstreets became one of our favorite ways of whiling away the time. 28.10.2012

Art on show

While I appreciated the art we saw from the perspective of a collection of modern works, the thing that entertained me the most was all of the tourists, viewing the artworks, while wearing their strap on water boots. I really did struggle to keep a straight face. Imagine million dollar art works, posh tourists, American interns giving talks on "modern art" - and visitors looking like they have done five rounds with a garbage bag and lost! Quite amusing. 28.10.2012

Peggy Guggenheim Museum

We decided to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, the only museum destination for our time in Venice. Even so, I think Frank is all museumed out. Seems too like many others thought they would escape the weather by visiting so it was more crowded than I had anticipated. For me, the thing I most like about this collection is not the art work, so much as its location within the palazzo that was at one time Peggy's home. The photos of her in the rooms as they were when she lived their are still of interest. It is quite an intriquing building, and is affectionately known as the unfinished palazzo as it was originally intended to have another couple of levels of living space added, but they never eventuated. As the owner of the last private Gondaler in Venice, Peggy's excentricities seem to have been accepted by the locals. Her beloved dogs are buried in the palazzo garden, as is she, beside Madame Butterfly, Emily, and all of the others. 28.10.2012

Life goes on

So, with waterproof (laminated very kindly by DK publishers)map in hand, off we went. The weather didn't much impact on our plans for the day, however, with the Venice Marathon on today, for the athletes and officials it was always going to be challenging. The winds, not to mention the water played havoc. Even the dog count was down to three. One being carried, one sporting a rain coat, and one bedraggled wet pooch was all I encountered for the entire day. 28.10.2012

Day light saving

The other point worth noting about this morning was that daylight saving began in Venice. The hotel had very kindly alerted us by putting signage out and advising us through Hotel communications (via tv screen). The only problem was that something was lost in translation, so where the signs said "we kindly advise you that as of tomorrow evening...." and they actually meant "this evening". So, guess who woke up at 5.00am ready to blog, have breakfast and explore! 28.10.2012

Aqua alto continues

This morning we woke to the sounds of the aqua alto sirens. Aimed at alerting Venetians to the imminent threat of high water, the sound is at once eerie and mournful, but of so beautiful. Reminiscent of whale song. Quite indescribable, but once experienced, never forgotten. We again waited until late morning before venturing across the lagoon. This time, though conditions were such that no one was allowed to go to San Marco, the water was too high. So we all disembarked at Zafette, our original destination as we were heading to the Peggy Guggenheim museum. Watching tourists get to the end of the pier, then realize there was water to cross was entertaining to say the least. Some stopped dead, others tiptoed through, and others just charged on in. With water ankle deep, there was no easy option - unless like us, you were wearing gum boots. I was interested to see that the best quality overshoes we had seen were selling for €12, so the €15 we invested was certainly the way to go. We really were navigating water until mid afternoon, such was the impact of the high tide. Incredible to see, you really need to be aware of where the water ladden street ends and the canal edge begins otherwise you might end up taken in unexpected dip.

The other element that caught people unaware was the wind. The rubbish bins and street were lined with broken, wind tossed umbrellas. They really offer little protection in these conditions. 28.10.2012

Aqua alto

Today we delayed our trip across to Venice for a couple of hours to allow for the waters to recede after high tide.  The aqua alto is making itself felt, with high tides expected at 10.00am and even higher tides tomorrow.  Venice is well situated to deal with water.  With her history she has to be.  It is still interesting to see for those not used to it. Many of the buildings, especially the shops, have metal plates that slide across the doorway, working to keep out the worst of the water.  That said, after the tide recedes, the buckets and mops come out as do the rubber squeegees and everyone sets too cleaning up the water and wiping things down. Before long things are back to normal, except for the occasional pump running to drain the most waterlogged places.  The duck boards remain in place and have to be negotiated for the remainder of the day. As for the tourists, most purchase disposable, plastic leggings and slippers which go on over your shoes, choosing to slop around as they walk.  Locals and the tourists in town for more than a day, wear gumboots.  At €15 a pair they are well worth the investment.  I happily wore mine for the rest of the morning jumping in puddles as I found them. After lunch, with a new suitcase in tow we headed home for a few hours.  We ventured out again late afternoon on a mission to buy gifts, and to choose somewhere to have dinner.  Another great day in Venice. 27.10.2012

Murano mosaic

We were unable to photograph anything within the showrooms, so have included the alleyway that accesses the glassworks. the main frontage of course is via the water. you would be hard pressed to find it if you did want to go back. the mosaic image is one from a random building on Murano, but beautiful and worth sharing. Although we were both rather shell shocked by the Murano experience there was one highlight to the episode.  When we were talking to the salesman while watching the glass making, I mentioned my interest in mosaic.  "Allora, my wife makes mosaic too".  So I gave him my card.  As we were leaving to go to the showroom, he offered to show us something special....taking us into a reserved showroom.  Here there was mosaic art by the artist Luciana Bravura.  Unknowingly, it was one of her pieces in the MAR collection in Ravenna, so when I saw the unicorn I recognized it.  It was the price tag that almost made me collapse - €70 000!  Her mirrors are €35 000 a large crow and a dove were unmarked, but the little armadillo on wheels which I loved was €7500.  Interestingly her work, while stunning is made by pressing tesserae into a self bedding adhesive.  This negates having to grout, and given her propensity for using millefiori works well.  That said, stunning from a distance, less technically perfect up close....at least for me.  Seems to be a preferred way of working in Italy....probably relating to the easy access to smalti, which does not grout well. 26.10.2012

Murano

Murano was on the list of places to visit today.  Famous for its glass making, it has been a centre for this industry since the 1200's.  Venice was always well regarded within Europe for its glass production and technical prowess.  Whilst originally developed on the mainland, the risk of fire and need to protect technical skills and ability saw the base for manufactured moved to Murano very early.  Glass makers could be under threat of death, if they left Murano and were discovered.  Such was the skill of glass making such a highly valued secret. We went to the concierge to book a water taxi to take us to Murano, following our practice for each day since we have been here.  The concierge told us that the hotel runs a free service to Murano for hotel guests.  As there is a shuttle to San Marco and back we still didn't catch on, so on confirming we could get the water taxi over, but find our own way back, agreed. What actually happens is that the hotel has an arrangement with one of the glass making firms, delivers hotel guests with their wallets in hand, and the guests buy some Murano glass.  Everyone happy - right?  Wrong.   The foundry we were taken to was Vetreria Bisanzio Gallery and it has been in existence since the 1400's.  We even saw their family tree.   We were invited to watch one of the current glass making experts at work.  In his 70's he works with his son and two helpers.  Yes it was interesting, and to see how the glass is handled and the pieces created was intriguing, but the style of the ornament of a dandy in his dress coat was not to my liking.  Ok, I think, there will be plenty more I do like, no problem. Good theory, but there was a problem.  The suite if showrooms we  were taken to were overwhelming.  Even for me.  You could not move for glass display shelves and cabinets, loaded with glass pieces created by the artisans.  The gentleman hovered advising he would assist with looking and advising prices as required.  It really was quite intimidating.  Then, as I began to realize that what I had assumed was the stock code number, too many with the same "code" was really the price I began to fret.  There were way to many zeros.  Prices were in the €1000's - €35000 for a chandelier, just like the one in our bedroom, €5000 for a glass animal etc.  We looked at each other in amazement.  So much for thinking we might buy something as a gift for someone at home to offset the "free" water taxi ride - which would normally cost about €60 each way.  A basic glass tumbler was €150 and a set of six port glasses was €870.  On to Plan B. Needing an escape plan I developed an "interest" in a glass turtle.  It really was quite beautiful in matt black glass, with cut away green detail, but with a price tag of €5000 was way beyond our budget.  The salesman offered to check to see whether he could reduce the price specially for me.  I told him I would need to sweet talk Frank in order to be able to buy the piece, so we would think about it.  By this stage Frank was nearly hyperventilating, in the mistaken believe I was seriously interested.  The look on his face was classic.  The salesman then escorted us to the door reassuring us we would need to return before 1.00pm to catch the water taxi back to Guidecca Island. Once back in the alleyways of Murano it took me the next five minutes to reassure Frank that I was not seriously considering purchasing the turtle.  We decided we were over Murano and headed back to the main island, happily spending. The rest of our day wandering the backstreets. Funnily enough, reading another guidebook in the evening I came across a warning about tourists being offered "free" boat rides to Murano....too late!   26.10.2012

Orsoni

Today I had an appointment with Luca at Orsoni.  Suppliers of the best Italian smalti since the 1800's the quality of the product is incomparable worldwide.  With a meeting scheduled for 10.00am we arrived on time, waiting until Luca finished an earlier appointment. It was good to introduce him to Frank, and he kindly took us through the colour library and stock room and the cutting room to show him the process.  While I had seen this previously I never tire of looking at the colour library so was pleased to see it again. It took Luca a little while to place me.  I think he actually had overlooked the appointment, but once we started talking and I told him my hair was a different colour last time, he remembered me.  He started making jokes with Frank about how women change their hair, their dress, their look.  From that point on he was great.  Very charming and helpful.  We thoroughly enjoyed our visit, placing an order for about 17 kgs of smalti.  From the Traditional, transparent and coloured gold ranges.  The colour range available buying it direct is beyond any I can access at home.  The cost is significantly improved too given the freight issues with buying from the Australian distributor.  So, all in all, well worth coming.  With the range of colors I have ordered we have agreed to call back on Friday to collect the materials, thereby allowing time to select and pack what I have requested. 24.10.2012

A true artist

For our first day in Venice we decided we would try to find Vittorio' s glass workshop. Meeting Vittorio and his wife was a highlight from my previous visit to Venice. Vittorio is a true master craftsman, and his work is known internationally, with a strong following in the US.  His shop is a true treasure trove with little "armies" of birds, insects, fish, and other creatures lined up on display.   A lot of the pieces are from his private collection, and as such, are not for sale. These are the pieces he deems worthy of keeping.  Like any true artisan he is very particular and if a piece is not perfect he will not keep it.  Almost perfect pieces he will sell.  Any others he is not happy with are not available.  While small, the shop is bursting at the seams.  His workbench too is here, as his his reference library.  When I first came to Venice in 2006, Vittorio had no reference to Australian birds.  I made myself a promise if I ever returned to bring him an Australian bird book to add to his collection.  This I did.  In the interim of course, he has got one.  A different edition to the exact one I brought.  He seemed touched though that I brought him the book, and exchanged it for one of his catalogues.  Very kind of him. Vittorio speaks basically no English, his wife generally translates, although she was not at the shop today.  So we made do with both of us chatting away, and smiling a lot.   I gave Vittorio one of my new business cards, with the little Rainbow Bee Eater on it. He genuinely loved it, then took an image from his wall to show me... a micro mosaic of a bee eater which his friend had made.  I am sure he will add my card to the display of items on his wall. The process of selecting one of Vittorio's pieces to bring home is a pure joy.  Last time I purchased a bird each for Mum and Mr T.  This time I chose a piece for me. While it was always going to be a bird, with 100 or so to choose from, it was a challenge.  The window display was entirely birds, and some cabinets were dedicated solely for birds too.  Frank liked a large hummingbird, and while it was exquisite with metallic sheen gleaming across its "feathers" it didn't touch me the same as some of the smaller birds.  So, back to choosing. I finally had a short list - one smaller hummingbird.  Selected from three he was beautiful and as I am also looking at doing a mosaic hummingbird had certain appeal. Frank liked a little Kingfisher, complete with fish hanging from beak.  Yes, he too was gorgeous.  Eventually though I settled on a little Italian bird.  A Cinciarella he is a little yellow and blue bird, with a seed in his beak.  Very chubby and cute. As for Frank?  His final choice, which I did not see coming, was a large spider!  The delicacy of his legs (the spiders, not Frank's) has to be seen to be believed....this is what makes Vittorio the artisan he is. With a final hug and a photo we left Vittorio and his beautiful studio, both clutching our parcels, smiling and knowing that this would be one of the highlights of our trip. 23.10.2012

A city like no other

Venice is a city like no other.  It truly must be one of the most beautiful cities in the world - and certainly one of the most unique. Everywhere I look I see history, faded grandeur, beauty and elements to delight the eye.  For me the pleasure is in the simple things.  Walking the back streets, watching the locals, seeing the boatmen go about their work, absorbing the artistic detail of the buildings and bridges. Literally everything depends on the system of canals.  Mail, ambulance, deliveries, even rubbish collection.   The boatmen know their canals and there is a series of ranking of who gives way at intersections, and who has right of way at low bridges. The gondaleers sing out as they approach a blind corner, they have right of way.  Motor boats and water taxis, back up to let them though.  Watching two gondolas pass each other in a narrow passage is a lesson in balance as each gondaleer puts his leg up, using it to brace the craft and avoid bumping the wall.

The oarsmen of the Cannaregio too have a unique rhythm to how they work their craft.  We saw four person and six person craft practicing on the canals adjacent to Orsoni.  Of all, only one woman.  Competition to join a boat crew must be fierce. Where once I thought riding a gondola was only for tourists, now I have rethought this.  The best way to see Venice, is via her waterways.  So, whether by gondola or water taxi,  I highly recommend it.  22.10.2012

First morning in Venice

This morning we awoke to church bells.  Realising we were in Venice made me smile.  The light here really is incredible with the view outside our window changing each time I look out.  I could happily sit here all day, watching the water traffic go by, then I remember it is Venice and knowing how much there is outside to explore I am keen to get going. Today we are going to look and see if we can find the little glass man from my last trip.  The one with the glass menagerie of insects and birds.  I have a book to give him as a gift - of Australian birds.  A promise I made in 2006.  I am quietly excited. 23.10.2012