SBS does Venice

SBS is screening a great series on Venice. Venice 24/7. Wednesday night at 8.30pm it covers the daily workings of the Fire, Police and Medical crews who provide support to the inhabitants of this unique city. The episode I watched last night had a focus on the recent visit of Pope Benedict XVI. With 100 churches in a three mile radius, this was always going to be a major logistical challenge. 2000 security personnel have been appointed to deal with the planning and implementation of the visit, in addition to the Vaticans own securi forces who travel with the Pope. Large crowds are expected within Piazza San Marco, the main destination point for the Pontif and his entourage. Not unexpectedly the key risk for events of this scale is " people falling into the water". It is the Fire Crews who respond to these emergencies and rescue people from the canals and waterways. They even undertake rigorous training to learn how to deal with exactly these situations. Giancarlo, Franco and Bruno are three of the four gondoliers selected to transport the Pontiff by boat. The selection process is extreme with a panel appointed to determine which of the hundreds of applicants will be selected for such an honour. The guys get together to discuss whether it is an option to "go slower so that they get to spend more time with the Pope". The men raise their oars in the traditional salute, and then receive a blessing from the Pope by way of thanks. It is evident this is a big moment for each of the men. Resplendent in specially designed new uniforms they are beaming with pleasure. Having now had the pleasure of zipping around in a golf buggy at Hamilton Island, I was amused to see that Pope Benedict's special transport for his visit was a custom made six seat buggy (officially known as a Pope mobile) with special police driver. This driver too practice travelling the route across Piazza San Marco to check for time frames and stability of the vehicle on the paving stones. God forbid we're the Pontiff to be shaken around at all. Funnily enough the Doges Palace was converted to a modern medical facility to act as a mobile field hospital to deal with medical emergencies within the crowds but simultaneously acted as the overnight accommodation for Pope Benedict. Hopefully not in triage, but in a separate palatial wing. Next focus was planning for the Venice Biennale with pop up art galleries in houses, churches and moorings. A six month celebration of modern art that takes over Venice every two years. Again, the logistics are incredible and interesting to follow as they show the installation of Jan Favre's Pietas's at Scuola de Misercordia in Cannareggio. The same area that Orsoni is situated and whose streets we walked so recently. Then similar coverage of the installation of Anish Kapoor's Ascension in San Giorgio Maggiore, a Palladian designed church where I first experienced Gregorian chanting.

By the time they showed a gas leak in Calle del Fumo I was literally bouncing off the couch. This is the street that the incredible glass master Vittorio Costantini has his workshop in! Having just been to see him, exploring Venice, breathing her scents and absorbing all this incredible city has to offer it was inspiring to see it all again so soon. Right in front of me, but just out of reach. As for next weeks episode? It looks at how the city deals with continually rising waters as the city itself sinks. Aqua alto here I come!

Piazza San Marco

Following our visit to Vittorio, we headed across Venice, stopping as we saw things of interest.  While we sat and had a coffee we watched a gondaleer clean his craft, then, both finishing our respective tasks at the same time negotiated to go with him to view Venice from her waterways.  We did a full circle, taking just under an hour.  Our gondaleer, who initially said he spoke little English, came out of his shell, and while he didn't sing, he did share little points of interest about buildings we were passing and the history of what we were seeing.  We took photos of everything we saw, and in turn were photographed as we were in a gondola.   It all added up to being a most enjoyable ride. Next we traversed Venice, passing the Rialto area, heading across to Piazza Saint Marco. A Mecca for tourists, this was an area teeming with people.  Definitely not for the feint hearted.  Things have changed somewhat, with signs now stating that the birds (ie pigeons) are not to be fed.  Apparently to do so now, puts you at risk of a fine. As for St Mark's the queue to gain entry was prohibitive.  Add to this, the fact that the deposit point for backpacks was a couple of hundred of metres away in a different building and it all seemed too much.  Having been there previously I was happy not to go in, but just to look at the mosaic on the facade of the building.  As for Frank, I think he reached his church/cathedral/basilica quota back in Paris. We decided instead to sit, in one of the nearby restaurants, and enjoy a glass of Champagne.  Much happier to watch the crowds than to join them. Dog count total for the day was 63.  Top score so far this trip.  The Venetians really do love their pets, with a number of pet stores around town.  The cats of Venice are much more easily spotted than their Parisienne counterparts too. 23.10.2012