Psychogeography

There is something that I do that comes naturally, that I have done for as long as I remember, and it is this.....when I am visiting somewhere that is not my home town, I wander. Preferably with a camera, but I take the time to walk the streets, breath the scents and at times, secure in the thought that no one is watching - I touch things. Mostly the texture of the buildings, the smooth marble, the sandstone, the bumps where corners meet. Engaged in this way I can wander happily for hours. Imagine my surprise upon reading my favourite quirky read, Frankie magazine, to find that this activity has a name. Unbeknownst to me I have been participating in psychogeography all this time. Who knew? What's more, it has been referred to as such since 1955 when the social theorist Guy Debord thought to add a moniker to this activity. It is quaintly reassuring to know that the meandering I so readily get distracted by has a name. Not just any name, but one that sounds sort of important, or even scientific. Not just killing time, this activity has a name which gives the activity itself considerable street cred. Frankie defined it as "bushwalking in cities", and yes, you do still come across occasional wildlife. But more, it provides justification to the journey rather than just being a means of traversing point A to point B. For me though it represents even more. There is the emotive undertone that is associated with wandering through the back streets and canals of somewhere like Venice that just doesn't come through in the term psychogeography. It doesn't quite capture the architecture, the textures, the shadows of light, the glimpses into people's lives, all there for the taking. It also misses the add on value of stopping for a drink or meal in some little out of the way cafe, where the workers of the city gather, where you produce a map, seek assistance, find out just where it is you are at, then work your way back to where you should be. A whole new level of seeing is there for those prepared to take the time. Perhaps this concept goes further. How about gaining your Masters in Psychogeography? How about psychgeolocating? Being the ability to locate a suitable cafe or pub whilst on your wandering ramble. Or even the act of psychgeophotography? Visually documenting the sights and scenes encountered as you partake of another psychogeographical adventure....and my favourite? Psychogeobuddy - that special someone, who holds your hand, so you don't become lost as you wander and leads you safely home. Check it out at Frankie issue 51 Jan/Feb 2013, p132. http://www.frankie.com.au/ Sent from my iPad

Spagetti alle Vongole

From Orsoni we walked looking for somewhere to have lunch.  We settled on a little trattoria in a side street.  It wasn't until we were seated inside that we realized that rather than being for tourists, this was the restaurant of choice for the local workmen.  With a set menu, and reasonable prices, the place was packed....with workmen.  Other than one waitress I was the only female, until towards the end of our meal when another group of tourists also came in for lunch. The lunch menu must be different to the evening menu as when I requested my order, the waiter said, no, lunch menu options only.  On seeing how disappointed I was he said he would ask the chef.  So, I ended up with Spagetti alle Vongole after all.  In honour of Christene, I had been looking for this on every menu I saw since our arrival.  Vongole are a little clam unique to the Venetian area.  I have never seen them in Australia.  The closest thing we have are Pippi's but I think the flavour of Vongole is sweeter.  My wait was justified as it was delicious.  The pasta was al dente and the Vongole cooked simply in a garlic butter sauce.  Yum!  I think I ate my lunch quicker than I have ever eaten anything, ever.  It really was that good. While I can't remember what Frank ate for lunch, I do remember he drank a half liter carafe of the house red with his lunch.  While it was good, we only relapsed as he finished the carafe that everyone else in the restaurant was mixing the water with wine.  Well, that was that, and from that point on, I had a very happy Frank accompanying me on my walk.  I have yet to see him so stonkered!  It was quite entertaining given how unexpectedly it took effect. Dog count for the day was 59. 24.10.2012

Piazza San Marco

Following our visit to Vittorio, we headed across Venice, stopping as we saw things of interest.  While we sat and had a coffee we watched a gondaleer clean his craft, then, both finishing our respective tasks at the same time negotiated to go with him to view Venice from her waterways.  We did a full circle, taking just under an hour.  Our gondaleer, who initially said he spoke little English, came out of his shell, and while he didn't sing, he did share little points of interest about buildings we were passing and the history of what we were seeing.  We took photos of everything we saw, and in turn were photographed as we were in a gondola.   It all added up to being a most enjoyable ride. Next we traversed Venice, passing the Rialto area, heading across to Piazza Saint Marco. A Mecca for tourists, this was an area teeming with people.  Definitely not for the feint hearted.  Things have changed somewhat, with signs now stating that the birds (ie pigeons) are not to be fed.  Apparently to do so now, puts you at risk of a fine. As for St Mark's the queue to gain entry was prohibitive.  Add to this, the fact that the deposit point for backpacks was a couple of hundred of metres away in a different building and it all seemed too much.  Having been there previously I was happy not to go in, but just to look at the mosaic on the facade of the building.  As for Frank, I think he reached his church/cathedral/basilica quota back in Paris. We decided instead to sit, in one of the nearby restaurants, and enjoy a glass of Champagne.  Much happier to watch the crowds than to join them. Dog count total for the day was 63.  Top score so far this trip.  The Venetians really do love their pets, with a number of pet stores around town.  The cats of Venice are much more easily spotted than their Parisienne counterparts too. 23.10.2012

Queen Mary

The view from our window this morning was not quite what I expected.  Hearing church bells and traffic on the water, we drew the blinds, to see the Queen Mary slowly passing by.  Attached to two tugs, one at either end to keep her steady, she sedately motored past.  Given the amount of tourists on board, taking photos, waving and watching the world go by we erred on the side of caution and closed the curtains. 23.10.2012

Molino Stucky

Flying in to Venice is a different experience to arriving by train.  One that is equally enjoyable.   We sailed through customs and met our driver, who took us to the wharf, approximately 5 minutes away, where we transferred to water taxi.  Reminiscent of Johnny Depp and Angelina Jolie in The Tourist, we arrived in style, big grins across both our faces. The Molino Stucky Hilton is steeped in history.  The building was originally a convent before becoming a flour mill and pasta factory, developed by one of the most famous Venician families of the 19th Century.  We checked in, left our unpacking for later, and went for a walk to explore the island of Guidecca, which is where we will be based for the next week. Originally a poor part of Venice, the mill and factory turned around the fortunes of many locals.  Now, although off the beaten track, the island has some trattorias, two churches and shops - enough to support the locals, and is located across the water from Saint Marks Piazza and other major landmarks.  It is actually quite nice to leave the hustle and bustle of Venice proper, to return home to an area less populated by tourists.  Given the hotel runs a shuttle boat across to the main island every hour it really is the best of both worlds. Deciding to keep things simple, we dined in the hotel restaurant, Amori.  The meal was good.  The perfect way to end an exciting day, with the promise of more wonderful things to come. 22.10.2012