Aqua alto continues

This morning we woke to the sounds of the aqua alto sirens. Aimed at alerting Venetians to the imminent threat of high water, the sound is at once eerie and mournful, but of so beautiful. Reminiscent of whale song. Quite indescribable, but once experienced, never forgotten. We again waited until late morning before venturing across the lagoon. This time, though conditions were such that no one was allowed to go to San Marco, the water was too high. So we all disembarked at Zafette, our original destination as we were heading to the Peggy Guggenheim museum. Watching tourists get to the end of the pier, then realize there was water to cross was entertaining to say the least. Some stopped dead, others tiptoed through, and others just charged on in. With water ankle deep, there was no easy option - unless like us, you were wearing gum boots. I was interested to see that the best quality overshoes we had seen were selling for €12, so the €15 we invested was certainly the way to go. We really were navigating water until mid afternoon, such was the impact of the high tide. Incredible to see, you really need to be aware of where the water ladden street ends and the canal edge begins otherwise you might end up taken in unexpected dip.

The other element that caught people unaware was the wind. The rubbish bins and street were lined with broken, wind tossed umbrellas. They really offer little protection in these conditions. 28.10.2012

Musee D'Orsay

The Musee D'Orsay (affectionately known as MO) was an interesting one.  We gained access readily as we had an express entry ticket prepurchased through the Hotel.  Well worth the €3 excess we jumped the queue saving ourselves about an hour. Things came unstuck soon thereafter though as signage suggested no backpacks were allowed.  Seeing the queue for the cloaking facilities I asked the guy on the door about photographs and he told me no cameras.  So, we packed away the cameras and I did battle with the queue for the cloakroom.  Bag finally deposited we entered the gallery proper to find that every second person carried a backpack and those who didn't not only carried a camera, but were  using it to document their visit.  We were both pretty peeved at the inconsistent application of rules....one of us more than the other. The reason I selected MO as my museum f choice, knowing that I might not get to every one Paris has to offer is that it is the museum of choice for Impressionist and Post Impressionist Collections.  The Louvre seems to hold the earlier works, the Musee D'Orsay these others.  Fine by me.  We studied a lot of these artists when I did Fine Arts many years ago, so poor Frank got a lesson in Impressionist art history.   Highlights for me were seeing so many Renoir's in real life.  Have loved his work since I was a little girl.  His Dance at La Moulin de la Galette being particularly beautiful.  Very large it is quite evocative of what I imagine it was like to live in those times.  Add in a couple of lovely Monet's Poppies, four works from his Rouen Cathedral series and a Haystack and I was pretty happy.  As for seeing Blue Waterlilies and the Japanese Bridge in the garden at Giverny I was smitten.  To see these works in the flesh, knowing that on Saturday I will be standing on the ground in Giverny is awe inspiring.  Remember that I studied fine art aided only by a slide projector.  Seeing works transformed to the same size, enlarged onto a screen is nothing compared to standing before them.  The subtlety of brush strokes, balancing of color palette and nuances of light transform the most mundane subject matter. One artist whose work I had totally underestimated until I saw it for myself was Vincent Van Gogh.  Yes, I have studied a little of his work, know some elements of his life, and have read his letters to his brother Theo, but nothing prepared me for the raw simplicity of his work.  The Musee D'Orsay has a good collection providing an overview of his work.  Favorite for me surprisingly was Starry Night.  The sky is iridescent and literally glows.  The reproduction in the catalogue does nothing to provide insight into the beauty of the original.  I also loved seeing the bedroom of the artist in Arles - one of a series he did of this simple little room.  Another work I enjoyed seeing was The Church at Auvers-sur-Oise, view of the Chevet.  Not the subject matter so much as the detailing of the paint and how Vincent captured the turmoil of the sky. The overall Musee D'Orsay experience was a frustrating one though.  The space itself was overwhelming and difficult to navigate.  Previously a train station, the building was interesting, but the layout of galleries was not intuitive and their was little flow between spaces.  It invested me to see that there was very little English text to facilitate dialogue between nonFrench speaking visitors and the art.  Each major shift of focus had one panel explaining the art movement, but didactics for individual artworks was French only.   The other confusing element was the retail focus.  While their were two little concession stands throughout the building selling books, post cards and small art based trinkets, once you left the gallery spaces and entered what appeared to be the main retail outlet it was a bookshop only.  You could not purchase the art posters, cards, mugs etc that had been available previously.  To make matters worse, you were not allowed to renter the gallery space, having exited the main area.  I consider myself lucky that the little guide book I wanted to purchase was also available in the book shop.  Frank spotted it.  Otherwise I would have no reminder of my visit. 17.10.2012

Aqua alto

Today we delayed our trip across to Venice for a couple of hours to allow for the waters to recede after high tide.  The aqua alto is making itself felt, with high tides expected at 10.00am and even higher tides tomorrow.  Venice is well situated to deal with water.  With her history she has to be.  It is still interesting to see for those not used to it. Many of the buildings, especially the shops, have metal plates that slide across the doorway, working to keep out the worst of the water.  That said, after the tide recedes, the buckets and mops come out as do the rubber squeegees and everyone sets too cleaning up the water and wiping things down. Before long things are back to normal, except for the occasional pump running to drain the most waterlogged places.  The duck boards remain in place and have to be negotiated for the remainder of the day. As for the tourists, most purchase disposable, plastic leggings and slippers which go on over your shoes, choosing to slop around as they walk.  Locals and the tourists in town for more than a day, wear gumboots.  At €15 a pair they are well worth the investment.  I happily wore mine for the rest of the morning jumping in puddles as I found them. After lunch, with a new suitcase in tow we headed home for a few hours.  We ventured out again late afternoon on a mission to buy gifts, and to choose somewhere to have dinner.  Another great day in Venice. 27.10.2012

Murano mosaic

We were unable to photograph anything within the showrooms, so have included the alleyway that accesses the glassworks. the main frontage of course is via the water. you would be hard pressed to find it if you did want to go back. the mosaic image is one from a random building on Murano, but beautiful and worth sharing. Although we were both rather shell shocked by the Murano experience there was one highlight to the episode.  When we were talking to the salesman while watching the glass making, I mentioned my interest in mosaic.  "Allora, my wife makes mosaic too".  So I gave him my card.  As we were leaving to go to the showroom, he offered to show us something special....taking us into a reserved showroom.  Here there was mosaic art by the artist Luciana Bravura.  Unknowingly, it was one of her pieces in the MAR collection in Ravenna, so when I saw the unicorn I recognized it.  It was the price tag that almost made me collapse - €70 000!  Her mirrors are €35 000 a large crow and a dove were unmarked, but the little armadillo on wheels which I loved was €7500.  Interestingly her work, while stunning is made by pressing tesserae into a self bedding adhesive.  This negates having to grout, and given her propensity for using millefiori works well.  That said, stunning from a distance, less technically perfect up close....at least for me.  Seems to be a preferred way of working in Italy....probably relating to the easy access to smalti, which does not grout well. 26.10.2012

Murano

Murano was on the list of places to visit today.  Famous for its glass making, it has been a centre for this industry since the 1200's.  Venice was always well regarded within Europe for its glass production and technical prowess.  Whilst originally developed on the mainland, the risk of fire and need to protect technical skills and ability saw the base for manufactured moved to Murano very early.  Glass makers could be under threat of death, if they left Murano and were discovered.  Such was the skill of glass making such a highly valued secret. We went to the concierge to book a water taxi to take us to Murano, following our practice for each day since we have been here.  The concierge told us that the hotel runs a free service to Murano for hotel guests.  As there is a shuttle to San Marco and back we still didn't catch on, so on confirming we could get the water taxi over, but find our own way back, agreed. What actually happens is that the hotel has an arrangement with one of the glass making firms, delivers hotel guests with their wallets in hand, and the guests buy some Murano glass.  Everyone happy - right?  Wrong.   The foundry we were taken to was Vetreria Bisanzio Gallery and it has been in existence since the 1400's.  We even saw their family tree.   We were invited to watch one of the current glass making experts at work.  In his 70's he works with his son and two helpers.  Yes it was interesting, and to see how the glass is handled and the pieces created was intriguing, but the style of the ornament of a dandy in his dress coat was not to my liking.  Ok, I think, there will be plenty more I do like, no problem. Good theory, but there was a problem.  The suite if showrooms we  were taken to were overwhelming.  Even for me.  You could not move for glass display shelves and cabinets, loaded with glass pieces created by the artisans.  The gentleman hovered advising he would assist with looking and advising prices as required.  It really was quite intimidating.  Then, as I began to realize that what I had assumed was the stock code number, too many with the same "code" was really the price I began to fret.  There were way to many zeros.  Prices were in the €1000's - €35000 for a chandelier, just like the one in our bedroom, €5000 for a glass animal etc.  We looked at each other in amazement.  So much for thinking we might buy something as a gift for someone at home to offset the "free" water taxi ride - which would normally cost about €60 each way.  A basic glass tumbler was €150 and a set of six port glasses was €870.  On to Plan B. Needing an escape plan I developed an "interest" in a glass turtle.  It really was quite beautiful in matt black glass, with cut away green detail, but with a price tag of €5000 was way beyond our budget.  The salesman offered to check to see whether he could reduce the price specially for me.  I told him I would need to sweet talk Frank in order to be able to buy the piece, so we would think about it.  By this stage Frank was nearly hyperventilating, in the mistaken believe I was seriously interested.  The look on his face was classic.  The salesman then escorted us to the door reassuring us we would need to return before 1.00pm to catch the water taxi back to Guidecca Island. Once back in the alleyways of Murano it took me the next five minutes to reassure Frank that I was not seriously considering purchasing the turtle.  We decided we were over Murano and headed back to the main island, happily spending. The rest of our day wandering the backstreets. Funnily enough, reading another guidebook in the evening I came across a warning about tourists being offered "free" boat rides to Murano....too late!   26.10.2012

Marco De Luca

The exhibition I went to MAR to see was by an Italian mosaic artist Marco De Luca.  His work was not only incredible, and of a scale rarely seen in Australia, but it was exhibited in such a way that the mood and lighting set the works off brilliantly.  I thoroughly enjoyed the opportunity to see this artists works, most of which seem to have come from private collections for the purpose of the show.  Purchasing the catalogue was essential. I now have a record of the scale and detail of his way of working.  Quite architectural even though not graphic.  Textural while being predominantly flat although worked onto 3D surfaces. Compared to the crowds throughout the rest of Ravenna we were virtually alone as we explored MAR.  This provided the opportunity to really enjoy seeing what was on offer.  At one stage, the attendant in the Marco De Luca exhibition had a chat.  Named Stella, this lovely lady must have been in her 70's.   I asked whether it was ok to take photographs.  I had seen no signage to indicate either way, so did the mime to check with her.  Well, in addition to saying yes, she settled in for a chat.  Holding my hand and patting it as we talked.  Her in Italian, me in English.  Then, she came after me to tell me it was ok to use the flash to take photos.  We chatted some more, so I gave her my business card, to try to explain why I had enjoyed the exhibition so much.  She seemed tickled pink, chatted some more, then we left to explore the bookstore, knowing that the Museum was due to close for siesta.  Truly a highlight to what was a wonderful day. 25.10.2012

MAR Ravenna

A message from Sonia King on Facebook had alerted me to the fact that there was another mosaic exhibition of note on in Ravenna.  So as well as visiting the basilicas, and the tomb of Galla Placidia, we sought out MAR.   The Museum of Art, Ravenna is incredible and well worth a visit. Located in a large building on the extreme edge of the tourist precinct the facility must at one point have been a covent or something simliar.  With three levels around a quadrangle, it is quite a beautiful space.  It has a strong focus on mosaic but also exhibits more traditional art forms.  The strange thing was that the painting exhibition upstairs had a fee for entry, whereas the mosaic exhibition was free.  Hey, who am I to argue? There is also a collection of contemporary mosaic.  Whether it is a permanent part of the collection or not I could not work out, but the quality of the work was astounding with large works from the 1950's thorough to now.  The other interesting thing was there were a number of drawings, again on a large scale, that then had a completed mosaic hung next to them.  Again, something I have rarely had the opportunity to see.  I perused these works for some time.  Unfortunately there was not a catalogue of these works, however I did buy a couple of books in the MAR bookstore relating to contemporary mosaic so came away armed with more fuel for research and development of ideas. 25.10.2012