Lake Como bound

This morning we left Venice via water taxi, then on to meet our driver for the road trip to Lake Como. We had decided that as the trip is only about three hours, we would stop in Verona for a couple of hours to have a look around, break our journey, have lunch, then head on. So by mid morning we were exploring the city of Verona. Next largest city in the area after Venice it really is worth a stop of a couple of days. Highlights include old Roman bridges, a Roman theatre and arena - really a small Colisseum, as well as an old castle. While we could still look around the castle, and the outside of the Roman arena, being Monday there was no entry to the museums or internal areas.

Verona is also famous for the role it places in the story of Romeo and Guilietta aka Romeo and Juliette. Not just from Shakespeare fame, you can visit Casa Guilietta, Juliette's house and even her tomb. We did see her house, but being short of time, didn't go to her tomb. Visiting her house was interesting.

There is a gift shop adjacent as well as a statue which has some medicinal power for women who touch her very shiny, brass breast. No thanks. After seeing the house in movies, and knowing of the tradition to leave a letter for a lover, I was stunned (read appalled) by the graffiti all over the entry archway. It was incredibly dirty and so not romantic.

29.10.2012

Ostaria de Botti

The Ostaria de Botti - cucina casalinga Veneziana became our favorite local eating place. On the Guidecca Island, a short walk from our accommodation we dined there on three separate occasions, including our last night in Venice. A haunt of locals and tourists, the food was plentiful, reasonable and tasted great. The staff came to know us and the atmosphere was wonderful - even the fake video of the "roaring fireplace". Venice is known for its seafood, so while in Venice I took as many opportunities as I could to sample local seafood, both fish and shellfish. Spaghetti alle Vongole and Spaghetti alle Scoglio becoming firms favorites. 28.10.2012

Navigating Venice

Venetian streets are challenging to navigate. Some because they are so narrow, others because they end in a courtyard or deadend, and others because they change name numerous times along what seems to be the same street. So, it is not unusual for you to walk along Fondamnta S. Bagio, which then becomes Fondamenta S. Eufemia, which then turns into Fondamenta Ponte Piccolo. All without going around a corner or a bend in the road. Then there are the abbreviations. Sometimes the street sign, not freestanding as we are used to, but painted onto the building on the corner, will say "Chiesa.." other times Chiesa is abbreviated to C. The letter S is offen used as an abreviation for San (Saint)To say you need a good map is an understatement. That said, it is so worth exploring the little areas off the tourist path. Exploring the backstreets became one of our favorite ways of whiling away the time. 28.10.2012

Art on show

While I appreciated the art we saw from the perspective of a collection of modern works, the thing that entertained me the most was all of the tourists, viewing the artworks, while wearing their strap on water boots. I really did struggle to keep a straight face. Imagine million dollar art works, posh tourists, American interns giving talks on "modern art" - and visitors looking like they have done five rounds with a garbage bag and lost! Quite amusing. 28.10.2012

Peggy Guggenheim Museum

We decided to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, the only museum destination for our time in Venice. Even so, I think Frank is all museumed out. Seems too like many others thought they would escape the weather by visiting so it was more crowded than I had anticipated. For me, the thing I most like about this collection is not the art work, so much as its location within the palazzo that was at one time Peggy's home. The photos of her in the rooms as they were when she lived their are still of interest. It is quite an intriquing building, and is affectionately known as the unfinished palazzo as it was originally intended to have another couple of levels of living space added, but they never eventuated. As the owner of the last private Gondaler in Venice, Peggy's excentricities seem to have been accepted by the locals. Her beloved dogs are buried in the palazzo garden, as is she, beside Madame Butterfly, Emily, and all of the others. 28.10.2012

Life goes on

So, with waterproof (laminated very kindly by DK publishers)map in hand, off we went. The weather didn't much impact on our plans for the day, however, with the Venice Marathon on today, for the athletes and officials it was always going to be challenging. The winds, not to mention the water played havoc. Even the dog count was down to three. One being carried, one sporting a rain coat, and one bedraggled wet pooch was all I encountered for the entire day. 28.10.2012

Day light saving

The other point worth noting about this morning was that daylight saving began in Venice. The hotel had very kindly alerted us by putting signage out and advising us through Hotel communications (via tv screen). The only problem was that something was lost in translation, so where the signs said "we kindly advise you that as of tomorrow evening...." and they actually meant "this evening". So, guess who woke up at 5.00am ready to blog, have breakfast and explore! 28.10.2012